The Watchman of the Inlet: Climbing Atlantic City’s Absecon Lighthouse
When you think of Atlantic City, New Jersey, the first things that come to mind are usually neon lights, towering casinos, and the boardwalk. But standing stoically just a few blocks from the gambling halls is a different kind of tower—one that dealt in safety, not luck.
This is the Absecon Lighthouse. Rising 171 feet above the coast, it is the tallest lighthouse in New Jersey and the third tallest in the entire United States. Long before the skyline was dominated by hotels, this black-and-yellow giant was the only thing stopping ships from meeting a tragic end in “Graveyard Inlet.”
The Tragedy That Built a Tower
In the early 19th century, the waters off Absecon Island were deadly. Between 1847 and 1856 alone, at least 64 ships were lost on the shifting shoals.
Dr. Jonathan Pitney, the “Father of Atlantic City,” pleaded with the federal government for a lighthouse, but he was ignored until a horrific tragedy forced their hand.
- The Wreck of the Powhatan: On April 16, 1854, the ship Powhatan, carrying over 300 German immigrants, ran aground during a storm just north of Atlantic City. Helpless crowds watched from the beach as the ship broke apart. Every single passenger and crew member perished.
Four months later, Congress appropriated $35,000 to build the lighthouse.
The Civil War Connection
Construction began in 1855, and the project fell into the hands of a U.S. Army engineer named George Gordon Meade.
History buffs will recognize that name immediately. Just a few years after designing the Absecon Lighthouse, Meade would command the Union Army and defeat Robert E. Lee at the Battle of Gettysburg.
Meade designed a brick masonry marvel:
- Double Walls: The tower consists of two walls—a conical outer wall and a cylindrical inner wall—that only connect near the top. This allows the tower to sway in the wind without cracking.
- The Materials: It took nearly 600,000 bricks to build the structure.
The Crown Jewel: The Lens
On January 15, 1857, the light was lit for the first time.
Most lighthouses have long since lost their original glass to museums or theft. Absecon is unique because it still houses its original First Order Fresnel Lens.
- The Science: Made in Paris, the lens looks like a giant glass beehive. It weighs over 12,000 pounds and could project a beam of kerosene light for 19.5 nautical miles.
- The Climb: To see it, you have to earn it. Visitors must climb 228 iron steps to reach the watch room.
The Original Tourist Trap
Atlantic City has always been a tourist town, and the lighthouse was one of its first attractions. Decades before the Steel Pier, crowds flocked to the lighthouse.
By 1912, the lighthouse was attracting 13,000 visitors a year. The keeper complained to the federal government that the tourists were a “great nuisance” who distracted him from his work, but the government replied that it was a “great public service” and ordered him to keep the doors open.
Going Dark and Rising Again
As Atlantic City grew, the skyscrapers and neon signs began to outshine the lighthouse. It was decommissioned in 1933 and sat dark for decades.
In the 1990s, a massive restoration project began. Tragedy struck again in 1998 when the newly reconstructed Keeper’s House burned to the ground just weeks before opening. Undeterred, the community rallied, rebuilt the house (again), and opened the site to the public in 2001.
If You Visit
Today, the Absecon Lighthouse is fully restored and open for climbing. It offers the best view in the city—a panoramic look at the Atlantic Ocean and the glittering casino skyline.
- Location: 31 South Rhode Island Avenue, Atlantic City, NJ 08401.
- The Climb: It is 228 steps to the top. It is a workout, but the view is worth it!
- The Keepers: The reconstructed Keeper’s Dwelling features a museum showcasing the history of the inlet and the life of the keepers who watched over it.
- Parking: Unlike most of Atlantic City, the lighthouse has its own free parking lot for visitors.
For More Information
Absecon Lighthouse (www.abseconlighthouse.org)
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