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Lost and Found: The Rediscovery of Historic Jamestowne

On May 14, 1607, 104 English settlers landed on James Island with high hopes: find gold, discover a route to the Orient, and establish a permanent foothold in the New World.

Instead, they found disease, drought, and a powerful Powhatan empire that wasn’t keen on visitors.

For centuries, historians believed the original 1607 fort had been washed away by the James River long ago. But in 1994, a single archaeologist with a hunch proved them all wrong. Today, Historic Jamestowne isn’t just a park; it is an active crime scene where the soil is finally giving up its secrets—including evidence of the colony’s darkest hour.

The Myth of the River

For most of the 20th century, the accepted truth was that the original James Fort lay underwater. The James River is aggressive, and erosion had eaten away significant portions of the island.

However, in 1994, archaeologist Dr. William Kelso launched the Jamestown Rediscovery project. He believed the fort was actually located higher up on the bank, near the 17th-century brick church tower. He was right.

Less than two feet below the surface, his team found the stains of the original palisade walls. The fort wasn’t gone; we had been walking on top of it for 400 years.

The “Starving Time” and the Mystery of Jane

The most shocking discovery at Jamestown came from a trash pit in an old cellar kitchen.

The winter of 1609–1610 is known as “The Starving Time.” Relations with the Powhatan Indians had collapsed, and the settlers were under siege. Out of hundreds of colonists, only 60 survived. Written accounts from the time claimed the settlers were so desperate they resorted to eating leather, horses, and even “digge upp deade corpses outt of graves and to eate them.”

For centuries, historians debated if these accounts were exaggerations. Then, in 2012, archaeologists found the answer.

Buried in the trash layer with horse and dog bones was the skull and tibia of a 14-year-old English girl, whom researchers named “Jane.” Forensic analysis proved the bones bore cut marks consistent with butchery for survival cannibalism. It was grim, undeniable proof of how close Jamestown came to failure.

The Church and Pocahontas

While Jane represents the horror of Jamestown, the 1608 Church represents its hope.

Archaeologists have uncovered the post holes of the massive timber church that once stood in the center of the fort. This is hallowed ground:

• The Wedding: It is the exact spot where Pocahontas married John Rolfe in 1614, a union that ushered in a brief period of peace.
• The Chancel Graves: In 2010, excavations revealed four prestigious graves near the altar (the chancel). These likely belong to high-ranking officials or clergy, including Sir Ferdinando Wainman and Captain William West.

Secrets in the Soil

Walking through the site today, you can see the outline of the fort reconstructed based on the archaeological evidence.

• The Palisades: By finding the original trenches, the team confirmed the fort’s triangular shape.
• Councillor’s Row: Excavations revealed foundations containing Bermuda limestone. This was a “smoking gun” for dating the building, as the limestone could only have arrived after the shipwreck of the Sea Venture in Bermuda in 1610.
• The Hidden Graves: Beneath the foundations of the row houses, archaeologists found graves. Why build houses on top of graves? To hide the death toll. The English didn’t want the Powhatan to know how quickly they were dying, so they buried their dead inside the fort and built over them.

New Towne and the Ambler Ruins

Jamestown didn’t stay inside the fort forever. After 1620, the city expanded east into what is known as New Towne. This area became the colonial capital, filled with brick row houses, taverns, and government buildings.

Dominating this landscape are the ghostly ruins of the Ambler Mansion. Built in the mid-18th century long after the fort was gone, this plantation house burned down three times (once during the Civil War) before being abandoned in 1895.

If You Visit

Historic Jamestowne is co-administered by Preservation Virginia and the National Park Service. It is a separate site from the nearby “Jamestown Settlement” (which is a living history museum with replicas). At Historic Jamestowne, you are standing on the actual ground.

• The Archaearium: This award-winning museum houses the artifacts found in the fort, including “Jane,” armor, and trade beads.
• The Walk: You can walk the exact footprint of the triangular fort.
• Active Archaeology: Weather permitting, you can often stand just feet away from the archaeologists as they continue to sift through history.

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For More Information

Historic Jamestowne (www.historicjamestowne.org)