The Crown Jewel of San Diego: A History Lover’s Guide to Balboa Park

When visiting San Diego, the history trail often begins at Old Town or the Whaley House. But just a short drive away lies a destination that demands more than just an afternoon: Balboa Park.

After touring the Marston House (a stunning Arts & Crafts mansion on the park’s edge), I ventured deeper into the heart of the park. It quickly became apparent that a few hours is simply not enough.

Balboa Park is not just a park; it is a 1,200-acre cultural city-within-a-city. It is larger than New York’s Central Park and is home to 18 museums, 17 gardens, and the world-famous San Diego Zoo. Even if you arrive too late to explore the museum interiors, walking the historic El Prado corridor at sunset offers a masterclass in 20th-century architecture.

If you are planning a trip, here is the fascinating history you need to know before you go.

“The Mother of Balboa Park”

In 1868, San Diego city leaders set aside 1,400 acres for a public park. For 20 years, however, it remained a barren, dusty mesa filled with rattlesnakes and coyotes.

Enter Kate Sessions, a horticulturalist with a brilliant proposal. In 1892, she petitioned the city: allow her to use 32 acres of the park for her commercial nursery, and in exchange, she would pay her rent in trees. She promised to plant 100 trees a year in the park and donate 300 more to the city annually.

The city agreed. Sessions planted cypress, pine, oak, and eucalyptus, transforming the scrubland into an urban forest. Today, she is remembered as “The Mother of Balboa Park,” and many of her original plantings are still shading visitors today.

1915: Castles in the Sky

The park’s iconic look comes from the 1915-1916 Panama-California Exposition. This fair celebrated the opening of the Panama Canal and pitched San Diego as the first U.S. port of call for ships heading north.

While most World’s Fairs of the era favored Neoclassical (Greco-Roman) architecture, lead designer Bertram Goodhue chose Spanish Colonial Revival. He wanted the buildings to look like a fanciful, idealized version of a Spanish city, complete with towers, domes, and ornate Churrigueresque detailing.

Key structures from this era:

• The California Tower: The most famous silhouette in San Diego.
• The Cabrillo Bridge: A 1,500-foot-long bridge that served as the grand entrance to the fair.
• The Spreckels Organ Pavilion: Home to one of the world’s largest outdoor pipe organs.
• The Botanical Building: One of the largest lath structures in the world. (Note: This building recently underwent a massive multi-year restoration to return it to its 1915 glory).

1935: The Depression-Era Boost

The park hosted a second fair, the 1935-1936 California Pacific International Exposition, to boost the local economy during the Great Depression.

Architect Richard Requa was tasked with adding new buildings. Unlike the ornate Spanish style of 1915, Requa looked to Native American and pre-Columbian styles, as well as Art Deco.

• The Ford Building: Now the San Diego Air & Space Museum, this building is a marvel of Streamline Moderne industrial design.
• The Old Globe Theatre: Modeled after Shakespeare’s theater. (The original burned down in 1978 but was faithfully rebuilt).
• House of Pacific Relations: A village of small cottages dedicated to different nations. (This area was expanded with new cottages in 2021).

The Navy Takeover

There is a hidden military history here, too. During both World War I and World War II, the park was commandeered by the U.S. Navy.

During WWII, the museum buildings were emptied of art and artifacts and filled with hospital beds. The Lily Pond in front of the Botanical Building was even drained and used as a therapy pool for wounded sailors. The Navy eventually returned the buildings to the city in 1946, though they still maintain the large Naval Medical Center nearby.

The Historic El Prado Corridor

If you only have an hour, walk down El Prado. This pedestrian promenade is lined with the park’s most stunning architecture.

1. The Museum of Us (Formerly the Museum of Man)

• Built: 1915
• Located beneath the iconic California Tower. In 2020, the museum changed its name to the Museum of Us to be more inclusive. You can now pay a separate fee to climb the tower for a 360-degree view of the city (highly recommended!).

2. The San Diego Museum of Art

• Built: 1926
• Designed by William Templeton Johnson, the façade features statues of Spanish Old Master painters Velázquez, Murillo, and Zurbarán.

3. The Casa de Balboa

• Built: 1915 (Reconstructed 1980)
• Originally the “Commerce and Industries Building,” it was destroyed by arson in 1978. The community rallied to rebuild it from the ground up. Today it houses the San Diego History Center, the Museum of Photographic Arts, and the Model Railroad Museum.

4. The San Diego Natural History Museum (“The Nat”)

• Built: 1933
• Another design by William Templeton Johnson, funded by the 1935 Exposition.

5. The Botanical Building & Lily Pond

• Built: 1915
• The view of the lath house reflected in the lily pond is the most photographed spot in San Diego. It’s the perfect place to end your tour.

If You Visit

• Time: You cannot do it all in one day. Pick 2-3 museums max.
• Parking: It can be difficult on weekends. Arrive early (before 10 AM) or use the free tram that runs from the Inspiration Point parking lot.
• Passes: Consider the “Explorer Pass” if you plan to visit multiple museums; it saves significant money over buying individual tickets.

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For More Information

• Balboa Park Official Site (www.balboapark.org)